Mathilde and Martinelli, sweet and high

Strolling around São Paulo's old downtown can be ugly, due to the urban degradation and rise of criminality. However, it can be also very charming. Much of the best of the architecture of São Paulo is located in the city center. There are many baroque and neoclassical buildings, many different styles, shapes and sizes, with some resemblance to those found in European cities, as well as some impressive early-modern buildings.

From Metro São Bento, for example, you can appreciate the beautiful São Bento Cathedral:

However, rather than the fine buildings I was eager to first visit this Portuguese Bakery: Casa Mathilde! I passed by it in another occasion but ended up having a coffee at Café Girondino, a traditional coffee shop in the city center.

The place is clean and spacious, beautiful tiles decorating the walls. They sell a variety of traditional Portuguese sweets, but the best known is this custard pastries called "pastel de nata". I myself had never went to Portugal to try the famous ones at Belém, but I took a Portuguese exchange student to have a taste and give me her verdict. She approved!!

We call it "pastel de Belém" here in São Paulo, but she enlightened me: it's known that way because the greatest and most famous pastel de nata is made at Belém. And for me, that was certainly the best pastel de nata I ever had.

You can see the baker preparing the "pastel de nata":

drooling here...

I also got an extra supply for the go!! ;)

(Another pastel de nata + pastel de Santa Clara)

Check this magnificent view of the Martinelli building from the second floor of Casa Mathilde:

So with our next target on sight, just a few steps away, we hit the Martinelli building.

The building has several entrances, but the one you want to make your way to is located on Avenida São João, number 35. Entrance is free!

Opening hours:

Monday – Friday 9:30-11:30 and 14:00-16:00

Saturday 9:00-15:00

Sunday 9:00-13:00

Since the Martinelli Building was completed in 1934, it has played host to hotels, casinos, nightclubs, and other culturally significant establishments. It was the first skyscraper to be built in Brazil and was among the tallest buildings in South America. There is a guide that gives you a taste of the history of the building, worth listening.

Martinelli has a 360 panoramic view of the center of São Paulo and a privileged view of the Banespão, which today is the third-tallest building in the city, and one of the most notable landmarks in SP, inspired by NYC's Empire State Building (the white building on the picture below).

Fun to take some pictures with this big guy!

If you are in SP, don't miss doing this! The view is amazing!

Cheers!